Tutorial pembuatan pola dan grading serta marker kaos menggunakan aplikasi optitex 15

0:00 In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful. Asalamualaikum warahmatullahi wabarakatuh. Good morning, best wishes to everyone. In this video, we will try to make a t-shirt pattern, marker, eh t-shirt pattern, t-shirt grading, and also a t-shirt marker. One example of the question is like this. Okay, here are the specifications of the t- shirt pattern where the style name is casual t-shirt, then the main material is 100% cotton. Then, in the collar section, RIP material is used with 100% poh letter material. Then for the

0:47 stitches, the SPI stitch per inch is 12. And for simple lowens on all parts or all sides it is 1 cm. Then the lowers or seams on the lower arm are 2.5 cm. And also for the pleats or hems or seams at the bottom of the body it is 3 cm. Then, to make markings, of course we need information about the width of the fabric. In this question, the width of the cloth is 150 cm. Then the ratio marker for 5 sizes is 1 to 2 to 3 to

1:32 1 to 1. This means that there are a number of components of size S 1. Then there are 2 size M. The number of full components of L is 3, XL is 1, and double XL is 1. So in one placement of the mask consists of 1 size S, 2 size M, 3 size L, and one each for size XL and also double XL. The efficiency target to be achieved is more than 85% efficiency percentage. Okay. Then at the bottom is an example of a question about the size specifications of the five

2:20 sizes. So this is our reference in making patterns. Because we will be doing the grading process, so to make it easier, we only need to make one size which will then be graded. For the example in this video, we will use the basic size or basic size L, which is size L. Okay, let's just open the Optix application. This is the Optitex 15 application, more precisely in PDS 15. So from Optitex there will be several modules including PDS to create grading patterns and also three dimensions.

3:08 Then for markers, there will be a marker module or marker application. Okay, this is a view of optx or PDS 15. The first thing we need to do is make sure the units of measurement we are going to use match what we are going to use. The way we go to the tools menu then we select preferences. left click. Then in the preference column there are several folders on the left side. Then we go to the main, main or main folder. There are working units here. Well, in this unit is the unit that we will

3:55 use. The unit of measurement we will use. There are several options here , there are millimeters, centimeters, meters, inches, feet, and y. We just use centimeters. Then for tolerance, the unit of accuracy can be up to two digits behind the decimal point. But there are several options of one digit after the comma, two digits after the comma, and no digits after the comma. This means that when we have a length of 8.5 or 8.6, 8.6, if we use a precision unit of 1, the 8.6 that we will use will be 9 rounded

4:44 up. If it's 0.1, it's still 8.6. For example, if 0.01 means 8.61. eh 8.60 like that. Then if we use inches as the unit, there will be numbers per, namely 1 1/26, 1/32 and 1/4. For the units, we only use cm with an accuracy of 0.01. If we have applied it, then we click OK. Next we will create a

5:29 pattern component from the previously determined specifications. So this black part is our canvas or our paper in making the pattern. First, in making an easy L size t-shirt pattern, let's just make the body pattern first. body pattern. The body pattern in optx we make one component in ee initially it is in rectangular shape. A rectangle consists of two sides. Not two sides, four sides. Consists of two wide sides and two long sides. How wide is it, how long is it? we adjust to this spec.

6:17 The width indicates the widest width of the body. Length is the longest of the body. For example, for size L, the width uses the body circumference or C circum of 116. To make it easier because it can be mirrored later, we make the pattern 1/4. So it becomes four components. For example, we divide the front body into two, the left front body and the right front body. We just need to make the right front body or the back body and then stack it with the front body, the front back body, the left back body and the

7:04 right back body. So it's stacked and then we mirror it. So we divide it into four components. This means that we divide the body circumference of 116 by 4 to become 29, or 29. Then the length is 77 cm. Okay, to create a component or the first thing to do is to do this, one way is to click on the piece, left click on the mouse, new piece, rectangular piece or something faster. The second way is to right click on the mouse then click rectangular piece. After that we just ignore the name. This bisname

7:51 functions for us to name our patterns or components, their name identity. But because the pattern will be broken down later , we will just ignore using it. Then we fill in the sleeve 77 based on the length of the shirt or body length. Wid is 29 based on 1/4 body circumference. If we have clicked OK. And this is the component of the piece . In this component there are three, four identities. There is P, that is the name of the component. Base is to show the size. This arrow is to indicate the fiber direction or warp direction.

8:37 This one is showing the number of pieces. Okay, long. Here we can see the number that we have set earlier, the length is 77. Then the width has been set to 29, which means 1/4 of 116 or 1/4 of the body circumference. This is the condition of the component or pis in sleep mode. Hey, if we are used to making patterns of the body in a standing position, we can erect it by using shortcuts on the keyboard. But before that, if we want to

9:23 enlarge or reduce the display, we can use the scroll on the mouse. For example, if we want to zoom in at this point, we move the cursor here, the mouse cursor here. Then we zoom in. If we reduce it, we scroll again, Guys. It's as easy as that. Okay, wait a minute, let's save the video. Continue again. So in this component the position is sleeping. If we want to make the position in a standing position, we can use the shortcut on the keyboard by pressing or clicking ee

10:12 se here. What is this called? So on the keyboard there are curly brackets but we don't press the curly brackets. But the other one is the right brackets or its position is usually near or above enter above the left diagonal. Well, if we have, just click on the keyboard shortcut or move it. Okay. Well, if it's already standing or this can also be rotated. If you don't use it. There is rotation here. Rotate is this rotate CW rotate

10:57 clockwise rotate counter clockwise not clockwise so eh the shortcut is this square bracket. Okay. Now, when it is standing, we continue making the pattern. So this long direction on the long left side is the body flashlight or t-shirt flashlight. If it's drawn, well draw it here , draw it here. This middle, this middle or center is this side. Okay. Then the top wide side is

11:45 29, when the shirt is drawn later it will become this side. Then the long side of the side sim is here and the bottom is here. This means the side over here. Oh, I see. So that's the picture. Well, of course we will make the front neckline and back neckline patterns. Half back neckline, half front neckline. Let's try to enlarge it. Well, half back neck brackets, half front neck brackets. Automatically the reference we use is the neck circumference. The

12:32 neck circumference that we use as a reference is 44 cm. The unit is cm, 44 cm. This means that 12 means not 44 but 44 / 2 or means 22. So, the total length of the back neckline plus the front neckline must be 22 because later when it is mirrored the total will be 44. Mirror is a reflection, from here the mirror becomes the total here. Okay. Well, after that we look at the other specifications to help

13:18 make the neck circle. We can use the distance from SIM to SIM which is 17 cm. Neid if in the picture the length from here to here is 17 cm. Because we only make the pattern half or 1/4 of it here, this means 17 is divided by 2. 17 / 2 = 8.5. Okay, let's make it 8.5 on this side. This side 29 means 8.5 around here yeah. The way we do it is by making a dot first. that point is a shortcut or shortcut on the keyboard using

14:05 O or this point or image is point on contour O. Okay. So if the cursor is normal, it will look like this. For a normal cursor, it is long, eh, long, arrow-shaped. If you are active, points or adding points or O, it looks like this. Okay, so this is actively creating dots. So, to create a point, we must first determine the initial reference point. The initial reference point was here, this is the center or middle of the

14:51 body. Here is the middle of the back neck. Automatically we bring it closer here, we left click then later the attribute point here will have a type. We check the type and leave the name blank. Then in the bottom part, this is the most important thing, we determine the distance. Earlier the distance from here to here was 8.5. Since the distance of the back neck width from here to here is 17, then half of 17 is 8.5. This means we make a point from

15:38 this reference point to the right that is 8.5 long. To determine the length on the right, we make sure to fill in the correct one. Here there are previews and also next in the absolute section of 8.5. For the H1 point here, that means we just look at the preview numbers here, 0.62 and also 28.38. When we add 0.62 + 28.38, the total is 29. This corresponds to the width here,

16:24 29. This means that the distance from this reference point, this zero point, to the point that we clicked on with the left, which is the cross, is 0.62. Then from the point we clicked on which is marked with this cross to the end here the distance is 28.38. This means that if we want to make the distance 8.5 from point 0, this means that what we need to change is the preview part, which is 5. After that, we click OK. Well, this top line, this shoulder line, this neckline is already divided into

17:10 two. Because we checked the grade checklist earlier, it is divided into two. there are 8.5 from here this point to this point 8.5. Then the remainder from this point to this point is 20.5. When added up the total is 29. Okay, we have half the width of the neck. Next we will make the neckline. Go down the neck from here, down the front neck and also down the back neck. So draw a line here first. From here point down is

17:56 down the front neck. From this point down here is down the back of the neck. After that, we use the front neck drop point again, the distance is this, yes, the front drop image line to sim 9 cm, then the back neck drop or back neck drop is 1 cm. Okay, let's do the back of the neck first. So, if we previously changed the preview in this section, we will change it to next. Because logically the closest cross to here is automatically the one with the smallest distance. That means 1

18:43 cent here. Then, to get down to the front of the neck, we also start from here . If from here the reference point means this one is not this one. Well, this is the smallest one here. this is 9 cm. Okay, after that we will make a line. But let's save the video first so it doesn't get lost. Okay, let's continue. After we determine the points to make the neck or neckline, both the back neckline and the front neckline, we need to connect the points into a line. First, be a

19:29 straight line. As for the shortcut or shortcut to create a line, we just click or press D or delta or draft on the keyboard. Well, the cursor changes to a pencil shape or this one is the draft D button. To use it, we left-click once at the starting point, namely the starting point we clicked earlier, which is 0.0. We click OK. We connect to our second destination point, we click OK again. We'll connect it again below. Okay,

20:15 let's left click. Okay, this is still an advantage. If it's wrong, just right click on the Boss. Let's repeat it again. Left click once. Left click. Keep it up, yeah. Left click once. We can use zoom in and zoom out to make it clearer. Very. If this is the case, the green line is still active to create the line. To get rid of it, we normalize the cursor with the shortcut set. Oh. If it is already in the

21:04 form of a straight line, while what we need is a curved line. because we will make a circle for the neck circumference. Now, in the process of curving the back neckline, we need a horizontal guide line from this point to make it easier for us to create the curve. This means that the curve should not go down below the guide line. Because later when it is mirrored it will not create a nice curve , but will create a W-shaped curve. Okay, to create a guide line, we

21:51 just left-click and also press it to direct it to the ruler line above. like this ruler is like a hangover here. We click left and then lower it down, aiming at the point where the back of the neck drops . Okay, as a reference. Then we curve it. To curve, we activate the move point or the shortcut M. The cursor changes again. This is the M point to make the fracture. So it is divided into

22:39 two. For example like this. For example, we will be at this point. We left click once we go down. Well, this is two. But what we need is a curved or unbroken line, yes. So, when M is active, we press shift, shift + M. So at the same time, M is active. We press shift. Keep pressing shift. Then

23:24 find a point on this line section for the curving process. Well, this is curved. Now, make sure we check that the curved line does not extend below the guide line. Because if it exceeds that, it will be bad. Well, if we make a mistake in how we curve it, we take the point again. We pull it up. If you have found the curve, the appropriate curved line

24:13 , we left click again. Okay, that's easy. So our back neckline is 8.6. Now we close the front neck. Earlier the neck circumference was 44 which we are making half the neck circumference. So the total should be 22 or 44 / 2. We already have 8.6, so how much is 22 - 8.6

24:58 ? 22 - 8.6 = 13.4. That means we need to make the front neckline curve 13.4. Later, just pay attention to this part , this number section will change later, we will make sure it is at 13.4. Well, for example, the shape is like this. Got it 13.4 below, huh? Swipe left. Left left. Hey, the advantage of sliding left is that it's not long enough. Well, if it's difficult, let's zoom

25:44 again. Okay, we got it. You've got 13.4 + 8.62. So, we have got the neckline or neck circumference . Let's just delete this. How to delete it: left click delete. Okay, next we will make the shoulder point drop down to make the shoulder line, okay? So the shoulder line is this one. This is a bit down here. So, we have to determine the distance from here to here in centimeters. This means it is a slop solder. The solder slop

26:32 or shoulder drop is 4 cm. The way we need to determine the shoulder distance first. The shoulder point does n't exist yet. Let's look at the specs again. So there is no measurement distance from here to here yet . We see here in the solder with sim to sim this is 50. 50 is the distance from here to here which means half of it, yes 25 the distance from here to here is 25 we use O again. We start from this point, don't forget to check the grade that was changed to previews 25.

27:20 Okay, now there is a shoulder point. After that we will make a shoulder line, but the shoulder line must first go down 4 cm according to the shoulder drop specifications. The way to do this is by using the shortcut line, which is D. We activate D. We left click again here on the shoulder point. If previously we used from 0,0, so the line starts from the point we clicked. To create a dropped shoulder, we use the from snap point. This means using the point that we determined first. Well, here below

28:07 is a picture that shows the direction of the line . If this one is a line in a horizontal direction from left to right. Because we see this one , it means that later we will make the starting point of the line to the left or to the right of the point we clicked earlier. If this one means in a vertical direction, it means up or down from the point we click. If this one means diagonally or slanted. If this happens, we will determine the angle later. Well, because the shoulder is down, so it is in a vertical direction. This means we choose this menu which has a line up

28:53 or down. Okay. Well, because downwards it is negative. If it is up it is positive, if it is to the right it is positive, if it is to the left it is negative. Your shoulders won't drop down. That means we use minus first and then 4 cm. Well, you can see the line from the starting point that we clicked here goes down 4 cm -4. So the starting line is here. We click OK. A line will appear later, but it won't start from here. So from here we just connect to here. If we have clicked OK. We normalize it. So, the

29:40 shoulder goes down 4 cm from here to here and the shoulder line or shoulder length, yes. Shoulder length from here to here. Okay, let's continue first. First, we save it so that the video is not lost. Okay, let's continue . We have made the neckline. back neck, back neckline, front neckline, and also shoulder line according to specifications. Next we will make the sleeves, armholes. Because it's a t-shirt, let's just assume the front and back are the same . For the neck brackets,

30:29 we will bracket the arms from here to here. Because the specifications of this pinch point are unknown. There is no pinch point here. This means we try to use the formula that the pinch point is equal to 1/4 of the body circumference plus 112 cm. Let's try using the one with 2 cm added. This means 29 + 2 cm is 31. This means we make a point from this reference point down to 31. We use O, we grade. Don't forget that means

31:17 previews 31. Okay, this is already there. Let's see the reference for arm circumference or amhold for size L. It is 54. Because we make it afterwards, just the front part first, for example, what is 54 / 2? 27. This means we will create a concave line with a length of 27. This means we will use it to create a line first, left click here. Click OK. Left click again here. Click

32:03 OK. Okay. 27. Because it's already 27, it's already a straight line, it's still straight, it's already 27.29. Moreover, if it is locked up later, it will be even bigger. This means that the point we use 31 we change to 1/4 of the body circumference, no need to add it, just keep it at 29. To determine the corner point we can adjust this [Music]

32:49 29 we draw a line here. Okay. Well, we get 25.32. We curve it until it becomes 27. If it's difficult, we zoom in on the edge [Music]

33:39 so that when we zoom in there's more excess. [Music] slowly but it's possible but no no it's not how many months Usually it's how many if it's not turned on

34:30 1 hour later Ian. In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful. [Music] Ah, this is it. 27.01 should be 27, that's okay. OK, if we have normalized it, that's it. So the body of the shirt is both the front body and the back body. Next we need to separate the front body, the back body, and also later on the mirror. Okay, the way to break the pattern

35:17 or separate it is by using the mewil method. The built piece or shortcut on the keyboard is the letter B. What does B stand for? Bandung, Bogor. Okay, we click P on the keyboard. The shape will be like a hammer . The hammer or this one? can be clicked here above this can be clicked but there is a marker from the recording menu the recording

36:05 screen recording okay changes like a hammer now we determine the area that becomes the front body pattern this is the front body pattern when If we left click once in the area that we are going to break it is green. If it is correct, we left-click again in the green area . It will be solved later. We normalize the cursor and then press left click. We take the front body, separate it, slide it here using the boss. This is the front body. Let's see the specs. the image is not divided into two, yes, the front body,

36:52 then we can mirror it using the mirror, the shortcut is H in the port, then it will change to H or this menu, yes, set half line or H. Okay, the way to use it is clockwise. Clockwise from this component means we rotate it to the right like this, right? Okay. What we're going to mirror is this middle side, right? That means starting from the bottom up because now it's a guarantee of hours, right? The way we do it is by left clicking. Well, so the left click is not

37:37 here, okay? But in this one. Well, up to this red color. Left click, there will be a green line. Let's left click again here. Well, it will automatically become a mirror soon. Okay, the front body is done. Let's change it first. We left click twice. Later the property business emerged. Okay, let's continue. Okay. So, we will give an identity to this component. The way we do this is by double left clicking on the component. Then the PIS properties will appear

38:24 on the left side. Well, we changed the name to front body. Then adjust the material to the specifications . Here the main material specs are factory cut 100%. We can type 100%. Okay, the number is one. Because there is only one front body . Now we can hide and

39:09 hide. Okay, the identity of the body base has changed. But if the material is not displayed, this base is the size. Later, when creating a new grading, it will change. So let's just ignore it like this for now. Okay, the front body is broken down. Then we break the back body. The method is the same as using the shortcut B or build. Then we click on the area which is the back body and this. This is the back body. Then, if we have

39:56 made sure that all the rear body areas have been clicked. We left click again in this green area . So, then we normalize the cursor and we shift it. Wow, this means there is a leak . Let's Ctrl Z first. Z again. Zet again. B just took a shower. K pull. Well, this is already pulling [Music] pulling. We can delete this. To delete it, we left click here then we

40:41 delete. After that, we mirror towards the far needle here. here. Okay, let's change that too. So, S2 becomes the back body quantity remains one. We have already written the material, the word 100% we click same. Okay, so for the front body and also the back body. Let's save the video first. Okay, let's continue . After we make the front body pattern and the back body pattern, this is the finished pattern, not the cutting pattern.

41:28 That means we need to add a sim or village. For example, we will make a village on the front body pattern. We hide the front first if we pack it with the same allowance allide 1 cm. This means that all sides are 1 cm plus a seam allowance of 1 cm with a width of 1 cm. The method is that we first activate the component that we will add to the village. Then we direct or we [Music] activate basic SIM. Basic SIM means adding to all sides.

42:15 The menu is here. The icon pictured is a sewing machine. We show other options. Then we select the basic scene, which means 1 cent only because this is the active one, here we click OK. this has not appeared yet. There should be a broken line here, a dotted line here but it hasn't appeared yet. That means we need to use shift F10. Then the general view of attributes will appear. Then we select

43:00 global we display SIM. We tick tick. click ok. Now, these broken lines are the cutting lines, the cutting pattern. After adding the lights from the 1 cm wide finish pattern. So here to here 1 cm. Okay. If you look at the specs at the bottom, it's not 1 cm but bottom hand. So for the fold at the bottom, the sim lom is 3 cm. Now, if you want to add the bottom part only,

43:45 don't use the basic SIM, but use the add SIM. The way we do it is by left clicking once at the starting point. Then left click again once at the end point of the line that we will give this camp to, this cannot be done. It's been left clicked. It can't be done because these squares are the mirror results. That means we're good enough for this. Well, then the attribute SIM will appear. The attribute sim has a start SIM. So, start SIM SIM initial SIM form later there will be many choices here. Then the enzyme means at the end

44:34 here we change it to 3 cm. Let's apply first . Now, if it's correct, we click OK. The front body has been added with a lowen sim according to the specifications. Now we add for the back body. First we use the basic SIM first then we give 1 cent. Then, at the bottom, we add a sim towards the [Music] hour hand by 3 cm. Play. Okay, now the

45:21 front body and the back body are done . Okay, next we will make the arm pattern. First, we make a rectangle based on the length and width of the arm. This means we use slip length for the length, which is 28. For the width, we use amho because it can be mirrored, so we make the pattern 1/2. We make the amhol 12eng ampho, which is

46:10 20 7, meaning the width is 27 and the length is 208. OK, we right click. The new piece is 28 long and 27 wide, we click OK. We set it up first. Okay, to determine the peak height I used 12 cm directly. Let's try, use 12 cm. So from here we make a grade of 12

46:56 cm. Then we first make a straight line here. Here, to be straight, what do we use? Use commas. If we use this comma. I move the mouse left and right. He doesn't want to. Stay upright. It's flying. Then we make

47:41 these 27, we just do it as is, for example, to come here. Well, it turns out the distance is 24.28. So we change it, we shift it using M. We take the point. There's nothing wrong with being stable . Well, it's been taken. Look at the green number, we make sure it is 27. We slide it to the right. Okay, I've got it for the armhole. Then for the

48:27 bottom part, the slip opening or sleeve opening 42, we divide it by 2 to become 21, use O first, grade 21. Okay, connect it with a line. Okay, that's it. Well, because the body is 27.01, it is better to increase it by 1 to 2 cents on the arm. The aim is so that when sewing, there is no pulling between the body and the arm. So

49:14 that there is an allowance for us to stretch the fabric, then on the sleeves we add 1 to 2 cm. For example, here it is 27 or the amhol is 54, we add 1 to 2 cm which means we can get 55 or 56. 55 to 56 or divided by 2 means 55 / 2 27.5 to 28 here . For example, we add 0.5 to 1 cent. Minimum 0.5 maximum 1

49:59 cent. Okay. So the minimum is 27.5 and the maximum is 28. Okay, on this line, we divide 27 by 3 first. 27 / 3 9. This means we make a point here, one third of it, we don't need to use a grade, we just go straight to 9. Then we curve this part, curve it down here. the top part we went to was a maximum of 28 earlier. Okay, so the total is 27.8. Well, we notice that this line is

50:46 a bit broken. That means we need to adjust it again. Well, this J makes it even smoother . Okay, we can increase it but it's already too much. Okay, it's done. Then we break it using boot or B. We delete this line we mirror it

51:31 clockwise. Okay, after that we give you the basic SIM. 1 cm. Then the bottom part is simulcast s 2.5 cm using s or here here 2.5. Well, for this arm part, it means that at the start we need a shape that is slightly opposite to this line. So it's a bit towards the outside. The goal is that when it is folded later, all of these parts are still sewn. Let's just try the

52:17 only one. Let's play it like this first. That means it's not this [Music] no no. [Music] Well, here it is then. So, the shape of the seam is to widen first in this direction so that when it is folded later, it remains parallel here. That's it. So for the arm we just have to change the identity. So there is one slift arm, but we check the pair, which means that later when it is marked, there will be two, one left and one right like that. The

53:08 t-shirt pattern for the front body, back body, and back is ready. let's save first. Okay, let's continue. After we have made the pattern, both the finishing pattern and the cutting pattern that has been added, the lights or sim lowens of the shirt consist of the sleeves, front body, and also the back body. we continue to do the grading process. As for the pattern that we have made, this pattern is a basic size, namely the size L pattern. Yes. This is size L. Next we will make an enlargement

53:57 or reduction or what we usually call the grading process. Okay, the first thing we need to pay attention to is the total number of sizes including our base size L. So there are 1 2 3 4 5. So there are 2 smaller than L. There are also 2 larger than L. The first way is to create a size table, which is in the view then the grading table. Oh, no, not

54:44 in view then business table. Oh, this is also [Music] is n't it. Oh, this is grading. Then size table. Okay, in this size table we only have one size, which is the basic size. That's why it's called base here and here it's also called base. Okay, that means we need to change the name to size L. Okay, let's try to explain each one of these tables. Color is to show the color of the

55:30 line for size L. Names for this line type size are the shape of the line, the thickness of the line. This base means that size number one or size L is used as the base or large size. Okay, after that, based on the size specification, there are 2 that are smaller than L. Therefore, we insert size 1 2, then there are two that are larger . We click size twice.

56:18 Okay, after that we just have to change the name. This is the order from top to bottom, starting from the smallest size to the largest size. S, M, XL, and XXL. Okay, this is the basic of DL. Then, if the color is not contrasting enough, we can change the color to make it more contrasting. For example, use red. Okay, it's like we've

57:06 closed it. This blue color is size L. Well, because the grading will have many lines on one component and also in this one component there are already two lines, namely the finish pattern line and also the cutting pattern line which is the result of adding simulation or kampu. So we don't show this simulation or campus. The way to do this is to use shift F10 again, then go to global, then don't press the SIM. So it is not displayed, yes, the display is not there, but actually

57:51 when it is in the marker, it will be there, it has been added by 1000 or its value has been added. Okay, let's start with the arms to do the grading process. So, what needs to be considered in the principles of grading in the PDS or Optif 15 application is one, we must know the X axis and the Y axis. The X axis is the horizontal line axis . The Y axis is a line in the vertical direction. On both axes we also have to know. For example, on the X axis, if we

58:38 want to shift to the right, it means we have to add a positive value. If we want to shift to the left, the value is negative. Likewise on the Y axis. If it is up it is positive, if it is down it is negative. So it's on a point by point basis. Okay, for example, for the arms, the easiest thing to grade first is the length of the arm. The sleeve length of each size differs by 2 cm . For example, from L to M the diameter is 2 cm. From M to S 2 cm. 26 -

59:26 4. Likewise towards enlargement from 28 to 30 2 cm, 30 to 32 cm. So the difference between each size and the arm length is 2 cm. Then we determine only the points which are the length points of the arm. based on this component on the arm means this point and also this point are two points that are used as references for carrying out the grading process. Because we are at two points and the difference is 2 cents, it means that our [Music] grading is divided by 2. For example,

1:00:14 the difference is 2 cm, it means that at each point we make the grading difference 1 cm. This is the top point 1 cm, the bottom point 1 cent. So the total trading, the total difference is 2 cents. 2 cm according to the specs in the table which is our reference. Okay, so we click twice, right? This is for internal properties. We display the grading table. in the grading table view then this is the grading table. So, this is what the grading table looks like. Those are two principles that we need to

1:00:59 know. X axis, Y axis, positive negative. We start from point to point. For example, from this point the length of the arm is from top to bottom. This means that what we will change is the Y axis because this is the top-down vertical line axis. Here in the grading table there is column X, column Y. That indicates the X axis and Y axis. So we change the arm length that we change is in column d or the Y axis. Okay, let's try L. to m earlier the difference was 2 cm. Then here we

1:01:48 divide it into two points. 2 / 2 1 cm. This means L to M increases in length from this point which means upwards or positive. Oh, sorry. If L to M, it means smaller, right? If it is smaller than this point down. That means if you go down, use -1. Then from M to S, M to S, M to S is also the same 2 cm divided into two points means min too. In this column there is a color column. This color column shows the size of each size or each

1:02:35 dimension. Well, we can see at this point that the blue one is size L as the basic size. The yellow one is size M. The red one is size S. So, the lower you go, the shorter it will automatically be . We hope he gets shorter. Then to XL. If it is longer, it means it is upwards, which means it is positive. one yes. One from which? One of the differences in the reference table is 2 cents. I repeat again here divided by 2 points so 2 cm.

1:03:21 Okay, at the top point we have successfully graded. We do the same process at the bottom point so that the arm length matches the difference reference table . In the table below, it means L to M is the opposite of this point, yes. So the way we do it is to first activate the point that we will grade L to M1 because it is shorter. If it's from below, it means it's going up, so it's positive. This positive is of course the opposite, it is longer down to the bottom. Okay, the sleeve length

1:04:08 is enough. Because the length of the arm here will also follow here, it means we need to do the grading process at this point towards the Y axis. Well, besides clicking one by one, if the grading is the same, we can also just copy the grading size. This copy, we activate the reading point first, then copy this copy, copy it, then we left-click again once, here we paste, paste y because the y axis is the one

1:04:54 we will copy the grading of, let's save it first, okay, let's continue again for the arm length grading pattern has been completed. Next, we check the grading size evaluation to see whether it is appropriate or not. The way to use the shortcut on the keyboard is to just press CTRL. The cursor changes as shown in the attached image. the cursor changes. Then what we will measure is the length of the arm. The length of the arm from here to this top point. Well, later it will

1:05:43 appear that if the measure here has a table of SML XL and dou XL columns. Then there are different length X different Y distance different angles. Okay, what needs to be noted is that when we measure from top to bottom here, the length shows the measurement result from here on the slit line, down then to here. This is what we don't need the information for. Because what we need information is the distance from the bottom point to the top point, which is the

1:06:30 length of the arm. So what we see is not the leng, not the leng column, but what we see is the distance column. The distance in this distance means that the results of the L28 measurements are in accordance with my specifications, of course because of the basic size. Then size M 26 is suitable. Size S 24 is suitable for L eh XL and dou XL 30 and 31 and 31. Oh, this doesn't fit yet. W XL 30 should be 32.

1:07:16 We need to fix the [Music] which is dou XL. We checked again because it should be 32 but it was 31 one. Well, it turns out it hasn't been graded at this top point. Okay, if we have checked it again using Ctrl D. Then we draw a line that we will measure the grading results. Well, this is already 32. So, the length of each is appropriate. This is the measurement result and this is the difference between each size. at

1:08:03 28 -2 to 24 -2 30 2 30 to 32 2 it is suitable for arm length. The next thing we will grade is the opening slip, just the opening slip at the bottom here. Mm. If not, just clockwise, sequentially. Here we go from this point to this point. Okay. At this point, what we are grading is the length of the armhole. The length of the

1:08:49 armhole means that it is included in the X-axis or the line from left to right. There are two points, which means that we should make two differences. At the two points, we can see the difference in AMOL AMOL 50 52 54 56 58, which means that each size has a difference of 2 cm, divided into 2 points, approximately 1 cent. Okay, let's get straight to the point here. Because this mirror is still active, so when we grade

1:09:36 here, the mirror side will also automatically be included in the grading. Okay, let's grade here. The X axis is changed from L to N smaller means to the left for shorter. Okay with that one. Okay, once it's done, we'll check it using Ctrl T. We'll measure from here to here. we'll see. Well, what we are measuring is the distance between the arm brackets. This

1:10:21 means that this line means that what we see is the long formation, not the distance one anymore. Because if the distance is measured directly towards this straight line . Okay, [Music] leng was 55.96. That means the difference should be 2 cm here, right? Well, this should be a 2 cent difference. But the grading results that we did by adjusting 1 cent were more than 0.7, around 0.7 to 0.8 cm difference. This means we need to

1:11:09 adjust or adapt it again. Why? because the line is curved so it is not immediately certain the difference will be 2 cents. For example, if we had 1 cent here, 1 cent here, it should automatically be 2 cm. But because this is a curved line, we need to adjust it again. That's why we shouldn't reduce it by 1 cent because earlier it was 0.7 cm too much. 0.7 cents or 0.8 means 0.8 divided by 2 because at two points around 0.4 means

1:11:58 1 divided by eh minus 0.46 X - [Music] 0.6 plus [Music] 0, let's try to see one size eh two sizes for L to M are almost the same, right? A little more than 2.02 means there is still a difference of 0.02, so subtract 0.01. So from 0.6 we make

1:12:47 0.59 minus another 0.01. Hmm. it decreases, we add it again [Music] de 0 comma 61 times, yes, we try to check, oh, that means it's stuck at 0 comma [Music]

1:13:40 9 more can't [Music] 3.9, we check again. It's just right, 2 cents. The S still has a difference of 0.01. It seems like we're at a dead end . We change it to 0.59. So that makes 12. Oh, then it has to be

1:14:28 right [Music] 10 dot 7 means we just make it. Well, we reduced it too much and made it 5.59

1:15:14 XL, which is still too much, let's try it. in 0 com 58 [Music] 0.58 selya so 2.01 is enough. Then we also make the double XL 0.58. We measure again. We check. Uh, still too much. We subtract another 0.57.

1:16:17 We tried 0.56, it was still enough. Okay, next is the opening slip. We also grade it to the left and right of the X axis, the shift opening difference is S to L to XL 2 cm. Dou XL to eh XL is double XL,

1:17:03 there is no difference in two points, that means we divide it into two too. Here the X axis is changed, meaning it is shorter to the left. This one, this one. Well, from XL to Doul because there is no significant difference it remains zero. We check for shift opening. The information we need is in the distance. It is correct that the difference is two for all except for the difference from XL to XL, where the difference is 0. Okay, so we have successfully graded it. Let's save

1:17:52 the video first. Okay, let's continue. After we grade the arms, now we will grade the body. Let's start clockwise first. Let's start from here, okay? This point we can grade based on the front neck descent. Get off the front leer. Project drop means there is a difference between S and ML. There is no difference between S and M. MPL selis, MPXL selis, XL to dou XL difference of 1. That means this is only at one point, right at this point

1:18:39 . J we read down means the Y axis. That means here 0 here if it gets shorter means up. 1 here -1 here too 1 eh not yet, this one okay then in the neck width section the difference is 1 C 1 cent from S to

1:19:28 XL. Okay, so we're down to four points. 1 2 3 4 1 / 4 0.25. This is still a bit rough, huh? So we check again shorter means 0.25 0.25 I am longer means positive 0.25. Okay, automatically here so that the shoulder length remains the same.

1:20:13 its size. This means that the same grading must be done here too. Let's just copy it. Copy [Music] grading then paste the X. Okay, here at the back there is no difference, this difference is down the back of the neck. Okay. Then on the shoulder section 1 2 3 4 means there is one here we divide 4 to solder the sim to sim, the difference is 2 cm each

1:21:01 from each size S dou XL 2 cm means this is to the x axis 2 / 4 0.5 this is shorter means to the left e + 0.5 + 0.5 0.5 so that it is longer again, it remains the same, meaning we copy it for the back of the body X. Okay, this is

1:21:48 done. Moving on to the body section. Kung arm. Armhole. Here there is a shoulder drop. [Music] Let's put our shoulders down, let's put our arms down first. Because later it will affect the shoulder drop, it will affect this, yes. Shoulder down there is no difference, this solder slop has no difference, that means we don't need to do trading here. Well, automatically for the arms we only grade at two points. Hello, bro. Hello, Yan. Pray, yes.

1:22:33 Please. Well, for the gap there are two points. This means we need grading in the front and rear chambers, there are two points. So we divide the difference by two . That means 1 cm in front, 1 cent behind. We see that the armhole or uphole differs by 2 cents from each size. This means that the grading is the Y axis. Here means shorter positive. here -1

1:23:19 -1. Okay, automatically the one here is also the same for the rear body. Okay, let's do it first. So after that we check at this point we will also grade based on body circumference. How many points are there around your body circumference ? 1 2 3 4 means divided by 4 body circumference, the difference is 4 cm from each size except for this size, yes, size dou XL up to 8 cm means 4 4 8 4 / 4 1 this one

1:24:09 2 okay here the X axis is changed, yes, if the AR body circumference means here it is shorter to the left -1 this is also of interest, this side was 8 divided by 4 points to 2. Then we just copy it so that [Music] is easy, yes. Copy the correct one to X. OK, here we copy [Music] again. Here we must be X

1:24:58 too. This is also the same as X. Okay, that's it. For this point it means based on the length of the shirt. The length of the shirt because we have locked it here at the top means the length of the shirt is only divided by 1 cm . Eh, 1 cent is just one point. The length of the shirt is different, body length 73 75 2 cm 2 cm 2 cm. the last 3 cm. The length of the clothes is from here to here. This means that the Y axis is changed based on

1:25:43 this point, meaning M is shorter upwards by 2 cm 2 cm 2 here is longer -2 here -3 okay, we just copy this, we move the y here too . This is also the same case with the Y axis, this is also the same as y. Okay, done. We check the crooked parts, they are usually problematic. Let's check the armhole first. The difference

1:26:32 should be 2 cents each, right? The hall is this one and this one. So in front and also in the back. First check the difference in the front section, which is 1.13, plus the rear section, it is automatically the same. This means that times 2 it is 2.23 2.28 2.28 2.72. This means that the difference is too much, we just need to reduce it here. Not just one, but how many advantages are there ? 0.26 0.26 / 2 0.13 means minus

1:27:21 0.13 we contain 1 minus 0.13 means about 0.87. Try 0.87 first. Let's check [Music] again. That's right. The difference is already one, what is the size of [Music]? The XL one. XL 1.1 * 2 2.28. That means the excess of 0.28 divided by 2 points means minus

1:28:08 [Music] 0.14 0.14 means here 1 - 0.14 min 0.86. Okay, let's try checking the XL 0.99 first. This one is 72, yes, it's big, yes, 0.36 2.72 means less than 0.36 1 - 0.36 means 0 [Music] com 0.64, yes.

1:28:59 Hmm. 0.65. Let's change it again here to 0.6 already. If it's on one side, because this is the left, the front and back of the frame are the same, that means we can copy the one that is definitely there . Let's set the video first so it doesn't get lost. Let's continue after we have checked the frame, we check again for the neckline which has curved lines. Is the solution appropriate based on the work? Let

1:29:44 's check. We use Ctrl T. for the front body, the front neck brackets already have various differences, they are different. Let's take a look here. The cerkir are 2 cm, 2 cm each. 2 cm. Let's go through the sizes one by one from L to Mis, which is 2 cm. Okay, let's check. 2 cm means it is still less than 0 com 08. 0.08 is divided into 4 points. 1 2 3 4 0.08

1:30:37 / 4 0.02 means we just add here 0.02 0.27. This is also the same 0.27. Let's check. Oh, wrong wrong wrong. Here the [Music] difference is already 1.95. We Ctrl Z first. Let's fix it first. So here it remains 0.25 for now. This is 0.25

1:31:22 first. Let's just change the one behind it . 0.25 too. Okay, let's see the difference in the [Music] behind, the difference is 0.5. 0.5 plus the difference in [Music] in front 1.92 + 0.5. Let's try [Music] just check it out. 1.92 + 0.5 totals 2.42 meaning an excess of

1:32:09 0.42 cm. This 2 cent should be 2.42. 2.42 we divide by 4 because it is at 4 points. 0.1 we subtract here 0.1 means 15 this 0.1 is also the same as 15. Okay, let's check the front again.

1:32:54 Position [Music] 1.77 we add the difference that [Music] behind 0.3 1.77 + 0.3 2.07 2.07 means there is still an excess Let 's 0.07 / 4.07 / 4 0.01 means we reduce it again by 0.01 0.15 - 0.01

1:33:41 [Music] 0.14 behind is also the same 0.14 14. Okay, let's try checking again. The front has a difference of 1.75 plus the difference of the back gets 0.28 1.75 + 0.28 2.03ah the difference of 0.03 okay

1:34:29 that's for size L to M. Automatically we now go to size [Music] S,9 0.5 09 + 9 + 5.5 5 0.89 - 2 means - 1.11 / 4 [Music]

1:35:15 0.2even 0.2 [Music] 0.45 this is also the same 0 45. Let's try to check [Music] 0.69 0.69 the front difference plus the difference of [Music]

1:36:05 back 0.5 1.9 is still not enough yes less 0.81 / 4 point add another 0.2 two we [Music] 0.2 9 65 Okay

1:36:54 [Music] add try to check get one and get back Mm. 1.3 is the excess of 0.3, we subtract 0.3 from 4 0.07 0.07 means [Music]

1:37:46 0.58 here [Music] 58.89 plus how much is the back side? 1.16 is still

1:38:36 0.05 more than this 07 [Music] 7 let's check the solution again for the front neck bracket [Music] 0.88 plus the difference in the back neck bracket which is 1.14 1.14 is enough, the difference is

1:39:25 2.02. Okay, that's it for adjusting the neck kung table. Now the XL. XL's difference is already 1.97. The difference between L and XL should be 2 cm . This means that the front is already 1.97 in difference plus the rear [Music] 0.5 2.47 means an excess of

1:40:11 0.47/ 4 points excess of 0.12 2 we subtract 0.12 cm for each difference for XL 0.25 - 0.12 0.13 0.13. Okay, let's try checking the front spis and get [Music] 1.8 plus the difference at the

1:41:00 back. The [Music] side behind is 0.26. still excess 0.06 we subtract 0.02. Try this one 0.02 means 11 0.11. Let's check again how far in advance?

1:41:50 1.77 plus the back neck side 0.2ah scope difference is 1.99 or 2 cm yes. Okay, now for those of you who are XL, the solution is 3 cents, the difference is 3 cents to XL. The front has a difference of 2.01 plus the difference at the back.

1:42:46 0.5 is still short 3 cm is still short 0.49 we divide by 4 0.13 means we add 0.13 at each point this add 0.13 means [Music] 38. The back one is also the same so it's 0.38. Then we check again 2.19. [Music]

1:43:35 What is the difference between the front and the back? Add 0.76 to 2.95, which means it is still 0.05 short, we just add 0.01 to get 0.39 K 0.79. Let's check

1:44:21 again 2.2, the front difference plus the rear difference. plus behind what you material 0.78 0.78 7658 what is this what is this receive what try forgot yesterday bought coffee oh Rp. 6000 change please. Okay, thank you for eating.

1:45:10 Okay, I've got 3 cents 2.98. Let's save first. Okay, let's continue after we have done the grading process and checked especially in the parts of the frame where the curved lines of both the neckline and arm circumference are in accordance with the difference specifications. The next step is we will create a marker. Well, but first we have to make sure that all the components here have been given names. For example, we check the properties by

1:45:59 left clicking twice. The material is not available yet, so we give it a 100% button. This is also done. This is it. And we won't cut the ones that aren't used. We just give it material X to differentiate. We also give this material X. Okay, after that we will check what is related to the marker. One of them is in this section, the rotation is whether one

1:46:46 way or two way, let's just make it two way . This way means that later we can rotate but still according to the direction of the fibers. Okay, if we have saved it, we save it on CD2, the file we named was casual, yes, if it is done,

1:47:33 we save it in PDS format . Okay, after that we make this marker. We close it first. Okay, let's pause for now. Let's open the marker application first. Okay, this is the appearance of the marker text module application 15. It looks like this. There is no sheet of cloth yet. So let's make the fabric sheets here first. The way we use markers. We click on the marker menu. Then marker definition.

1:48:19 Markers and definitions. Here we will name the marker casual t first. After that, the width of the fabric based on the pack size is 150 cm. Let's just say we reduce the unused side . Each side is 1 cent. There are two sides, so subtract 2 cm. 150 - 2 148. So the width of the fabric used to make the marker is 100 408 cm.

1:49:07 This rank is based on the length of the table we have. At the AK Solo campus, the length of the table is around 10 m or 1000 cm. Okay, after that we Okay, here we have a white rectangular sheet . This means that this is a marker sheet marker that we will arrange the patterns on top of this white stuff. Then we

1:49:54 open [Music] style. We are looking for a PDS file that looks like this. PDS lah. PD1's power save, yes. open. Well, it's already appeared above. But we only use three components, the front body, the back body, and also the arms. So we call this style name casual. Then we take the material that is cut 100% and then we click add. Okay, for this this is the

1:50:40 marker ratio. Let's see in the question. 1 2 3 1 S1 M2 L3 XL1 XL1 means we change it to one, this is two, this is 3, if we have checked, fill in the info first. If [Music] we have clicked OK. Okay. Well, so these are the three that we use. Here is the name of the front body or

1:51:26 front body component size S. Because the active size is S. Here there is S ML. S is one in number according to the marker ratio. The rear body is also the same. S is one in number. There are two of these slifts . One left one right. If we manually left click twice, it will go down. Then we switch to size M. We click twice. L M because there are two, it means there are two sizes, or these two are also the same, we can scale them down. Well, here we can see the total information on the student loans, which should be

1:52:11 32, on the bottom left, 32, and 6 have been placed, meaning that the rest still need to be placed, around 28, eh, 26 more. Then, with the current condition, the efficiency is 71.73%, whereas our target is to be more than 85% . Then the length of the widu, eh wid, is wide like the one we set earlier, 148 cm. The length is still 2 m 41 cm. So from here to the end of the marker placement is 2 m1. If

1:52:59 we move it, automatically everything will change including its efficiency and also its length. This is the manual way we take everything down. Make sure it's all zero . it means that everything has been saved, we have put everything in place. So, here we can arrange them using left click, press and slide them so they don't overlap. But if this is done automatically, it won't overlap. Not

1:53:46 really. This can be stacked as well. Well, if the color is solid like this, it means it doesn't collide. This can also be zoomed using the scroll on the mouse. Okay, with our original condition the efficiency is 69.7. Well, we can change this. If you want to change the direction of the frame to this side,

1:54:31 just right click . Okay, this is the manual way. We just use the automatic method. We give the marker application the opportunity to arrange automatically. Arrange as efficiently as possible. The way to do this is by setting up auto nesting, we give it a few minutes to give the marker application time to arrange it most efficiently. For example, if 1 minute is set to 1 minute. If we have started. He asked us to first clean the components that

1:55:16 we had arranged on the marker to start. If approved, just click OK. Well, this clock cursor sign indicates that it is in the process of automatically searching for the most efficient marker arrangement for 1 minute. If we look at the bottom, it turns out the efficiency is only 75%. This means that the maximum time for this 1 minute is 75%. This means that the problem we have cannot reach

1:56:04 more than 85% because the maximum here is only 75% with a required length of 8 m 22 cm. Yes the information is here. Okay, it turns out the maximum is 75.02%. Well, later you can also use a longer setup, for example 2 minutes or 10 minutes to increase efficiency because it takes more time. If it's done, we just

1:56:53 save it, then we just save it in the previous one . Where is E ? Here, if this is PDS, the format is PDS, if this is MRK, we save it. I have finished making the t-shirt pattern, I have made the reading, I have made the marker, please try it, thank you, wasalamualaikum warahmatullahi wabarakatuh Yeah.